Cigognes - storks, rest in Montblanc en route to Africa

I had no plans to write an article this week as we are so busy in the office. However, the event last night made me change my mind. After a busy, busy day I sat outside on the terrace with David to relax over a relatively simple meal and a glass (or two) of wine.

We had just finished desert when David's attention was caught by an amazing sight. What seemed to be a large flock of birds were flying low, and in a rough formation, over the trees in the garden towards our house. As they got closer David said they were flamingos, but no, when they were really close I could see that they were cigognes - storks in English.

To see so many large birds gracefully gliding and swirling around was a truly wonderful sight. They circled the house three of four times before swinging northwards towards the centre of the village.

The next morning, Renée et Laurent Martinotti, friends of ours in the village, sent this photo they took, showing the cigognes as they perched on the Montblanc village church, settling down for the night after a long flight during the day.

Resting on Montblanc village church for the night

The cigognes are on their annual migration, coming from the north-east of France, probably Alsace, and are on their way to Africa for the winter. They are large birds and, because of their body weight, like eagles, they rely on gliding and soaring with thermals. Although we are only about 12 kms from the Mediterranean, they will not fly direct to Africa that way due to the lack of thermals over water. Instead, after resting for the night, they will continue their journey southwards, soaring over the Pyrenees into Spain, and then fly all the way down to the Straits of Gibraltar, following the coastline and choosing to cross the Mediterranean at it's narrowest point. Altogether, this is something like a 4,500 kms return trip - each year!

A concert evening in L’Eglise St. Christophe, Margon

The village of Margon, surrounded by vineyards

As I often say, there is always something to do, something to see or somewhere to visit in the region. This makes the area so much more exciting and interesting for holidaymakers, and of course, people who live here – like me.

Unfortunately however, unlike those on holiday here, I am working here. That means I cannot do or see everything I want to. But, when you are on holiday you should read all the local publicity flyers, posters, or brochures to find out 'What's On'. Then, if the event appeals, just go there and join in, whether it's a local fete, a concert (most of them free in the summer), a parade, or any other 'happening'.

This week, having seen a flyer advertising an unusual concert evening, it was a visit to Margon, a beautiful village with a picturesque Disney-type chateau. The concert evening, organised by a village association (C.A.L.M.) was held in the small and charming village church, L’Eglise St. Christophe. The date over the door as you enter gives a sense of history - built 1652!

The concert was given by Pete Churchill and his London Vocal Project and advertised on the flyer as an evening of "...hand-clapping choral arrangements of popular soul, gospel and jazz, from Stevie Wonder to Carole King, sung by a marvellous choir of young vocalists."

The concert in L’Eglise St. Christophe, Margon

The singers who make up the London Vocal Project are drawn from the students and alumni of the leading London music colleges. They were in the area that week as the whole ensemble were taking a working holiday at a nearby hotel, La Maison Verte, in Roujan. This hotel regularly organises working weeks, each with a different theme - a week of learning how to paint, or play a musical instrument, or even a 'writer's week'. People who arrive for these events are usually accomplished in their skills in some way and the week is to add a little more professionalism. Like the young students this week, all accomplished vocalists, brought together so they could learn even more.

Pete Churchill, enthusiastically leading the young students

This impressive array of vocal talent was led by pianist Pete Churchill, whose arrangements of traditional and contemporary Gospel music, South African protest songs and classics by Labi Siffre, James Taylor, Paul Simon and Carole King provided an uplifting repertoire for an engaging choral performance.

As expected, the tiny church was packed, with lots of people from the village obviously, but also many people who are in the area on holiday, and the audience made the young singers feel completely at home, right from the word go. Pete Churchill introduced both himself and all the young people. What followed was singing that can only be described as enchanting and captivating, as the group worked their way through a repertoire that included soul, jazz, and many very familiar songs. This was more than songs from the 60’s and 70’s, this was real music and a show presented with true professionalism and great enthusiasm.

The evening ended with three "encores", which the group willingly gave, ending the concert by walking in file, singing as they left the church onto the small street outside.

Absolutely wonderful - an evening not to be missed, whether as a local resident or holidaymaker.

Vendange - the harvest for the wine crop 2009

It’s 3.00am Monday and the combined engine roar and whine of the huge vendange machines as they trundle past our house is incredible. Of course, we have the bedroom windows open, with the curtains wafting in the warm early morning breeze, and this allows the noise to intrude and awaken us. The sound heralds the start of this year's vendange - the harvest.

After 12 months working in the fields to ensure the best possible crop, it's now time for the winegrowers to see if all their work has been worthwhile. In this area the harvest will continue until well into September - the time and duration of picking usually depending upon the weather, the variety of grape and how each variety has fared during its growing season.

Wine produced by the Greeks and Romans
When vinified and bottled the wine will be labelled as wine from Languedoc – Roussillon. The area has around 700,000 acres (2,800 km2) under vines and is the single biggest wine-producing region in the world, being responsible for more than a third of France's total wine production. (Until a few years ago the region produced more wine than the entire United States.)

Wine has been grown in this area since then 5th century BC, cultivated along the Mediterranean coast by the Greeks, and in later centuries, by the Romans.

Whilst during the middle ages wine from the area was considered the best produced in France, unfortunately during the last century, as production concentrated on quantity rather than quality, the reputation was lost, and wine from the area was called le gros rouge — cheap red wine, plonk.

The winegrowers woke up a little late, seeing their markets disappear to new world wines – Australia, California, Chile, East European producers and many other countries, and so have concentrated their efforts on producing less wine but of higher quality. They appear to be succeeding and there is now a wide range of high quality wines bearing the label “wine of Languedoc – Roussillon".

Caves Coopératives and Independents.
There are two main outlets for producing wine – Caves Coopératives and Independents. The caves coopératives was a government backed initiative to give support to the winegrowers at the beginning of the 20th century. During the 1920’s and 30’s the number of caves coopératives grew quickly. Most of the special buildings to produce the wine were built during this period, with government help; hence, they all look very similar in style. Wine growers who are members of the coopérative elect to share profits and costs, and to bring in their grapes to be mixed with similar grapes to produce the end product and be labelled wine from the cave cooperative.

At the village of Pouzolles, a typical cave cooperative during the vendange

Members of French winemaking coopératives own more than half the total French vineyard surface and produce more than half the total amount of French wine.

Independents quite simply do it on their own, picking, making and bottling their own wine with their own label. And there are many winegrowers who still pick the grapes by hand. This is backbreaking, slow laborious work, although the benefits can result in a better end product - the grapes aren’t bruised so much, and this helps improve the taste (they say).

Automatic grape pickers, making work a little easier
However, most winegrowers now use one of the many types of automatic grape pickers - the Braud, New Holland and Pellenc being the first few that spring to mind.

They traverse the rows of vines and make their way from one end of the vineyard to the other. As they do this, bars inside the machine vibrate and beat off the bunches of ripe grapes. They drop into small 'plastic pockets' attached to conveyor belts on either side of the beater bar assembly and are taken up to be deposited in large metal hoppers fixed to each side of the machine. They are then dropped into trailers waiting behind parked tractors and make their way to the local cave or domain.

A Braud machine making its way up a row of vines

Even as I write, things could go horribly wrong. The weather has been kind, plenty of sunshine and little rain - it has only rained on one occasion sine May - and that was a brief 15 minute shower. But the weather can be unpredictable at this time of year, and a bad storm, or worse still, a hail storm, can ruin a whole year's work. Last year it did hail in this area. A few villages such as Pouzolles and Nèffies had started the vendange one day, to have a violent hailstorm that completed destroyed the crop the next.

But so far everything is looking good, and expectations are high for a very good vintage. The grapes are not so big this year - with so little rain they haven't grown so much. However, this means a higher percentage of sugar content, which when going through the wine vinification process, means a higher alcohol content. There will be less quantity of wine, but it should be of a higher quality, unless the alcohol level goes too high.

Wine produced from the small grapes grown in the hot blistering summer of 2003, the hottest summer on record, was very high in alcohol - sometimes over 14.5% alcohol. This is too high. Too high an alcohol content makes it difficult to appreciate the many different subtle flavours of a wine.

Which wine is best is always a matter of personal taste. However, when on holiday it’s always good fun to visit either a local cave or independent domain to sample their particular wines, either by buying it by the bottle, or vrac (on draught) and having a 5L bidon filled from apparatus that looks like a petrol pump.

So, this year, as the vendange starts in beautiful hot sunny weather, it's fingers crossed that the weather will hold, with no violent storms, until all the grapes are harvested.

Fête de la Libération

La Place, already starting to fill up as we arrive for La Fête de la Libération

Another weekend, and very, very busy. In our village, as in many other towns and villages, Saturday was Fête de la Libération. This is a day held to commemorate and celebrate the liberation of the region of Languedoc from German occupation. The day is not to be confused with the VE Day, which is on May 8, and is a National Public Holiday. That day is to commemorate the end of WWII and is a very solemn ceremony, with parades and wreath laying to remember those who gave their lives in the wars.

No, although there is a wreath laying ceremony and official marking of this day, this is more a celebration. The event in our village is organised by the Ancients Combatants, the French equivalent of the British Legion, in alliance with other supporting associations.

After a full day of preparation the event starts at 18.30 with the official ceremony in front of the war memorial. The mayor, and leaders of the different groups of Ancient Combatants, parade to the war memorial and stand to attention as military music is played by a small group of musicians. After the wreaths are laid at the foot of the monument, and a minute's silence to remember all who gave their lives during the conflicts, the mood changes, as a rousing rendition of "Le Marseilles" is played. Stirring stuff!

Then, everyone takes their place at the tables and chairs already set out on the main Place of the village. The Place itself is typical of nearly every village in the south of France, although not all have the main Place in front of the Mairie. However, most do have a war memorial, and of course, plenty of Plane trees to shelter from the sun. Saturday at 2.00pm we had temperatures hovering around 39 degrees, so the trees do give some respite.

Then, it's time for the celebrations, which as usual, is an amazing night of good food and wine and the very best of music - an extravaganza of a show.

The meal is provided by the Ancient Combatants with assistance of the local Football Club. They prepared meals to suit all, from paella, to grilled meats and fries. For 10 euros you can have the set meal, delivered on large airline type trays. The meal includes fresh melon, two large sausages, plenty of fries, or paella if you wish - and of course bread and cheese. All this followed by desert, Tarte Normande - typically French.

The wine is from the local cave - of course. It's one of the best wines, and specially suited for hot sunny days and warm evenings, "Les Fleurs de Montblanc, Syrah Rosé.


The show this year is provided by the outstanding Paul Selmer Ochestre. David tells me that Paul Selmer fits with the title of one of his favourite books, a biography of Jack Hulmes, a photographer from his home town. The title is "World Famous Around Here", which he says really does sum up Paul Selmer and his orchestra. They really are fabulous and attract large crowds wherever they play.

The orchestra is a team of 24, composed of singers, dancers and the musicians, who play a wide range of instruments. Most of the team are young people who are attending the music academy in Montpellier, so each year it's a continually changing team - except for the older ones who seem to have been part of the orchestra since it started in the 60's.

On Stage - the Paul Selmer Orchestre

The music is a melange of 40's - Glenn Miller and the Andrew Sisters for example (Rum and Coca Cola?!) and typical music of the era of the Libération, through the 50's, 60's and 70's up to the present day. For example they ochestre and girls did a wonderful sequence with Indian style dancing whilst singing "Jai Ho" (the theme music from Slumdog Millionaire) in the style of the Pussycat Dolls.

This is another opportunity to spend a beautiful evening meeting friends and chatting together, learning the latest news and generally having a good time. Plus of course, plenty of floor space to have a dance to 'til the early morning.

David says it's events like this, enjoying an evening with friends in the open air, with plenty of entertainment and warm ambience, that help make life in the south of France so idyllic.

Footnote: Between our village and the neighbouring village of Valros is a large cross, erected in the vineyards by the side of the Route National, the N9 between Pézenas and Béziers. The cross is in memory of four people, three of them teenagers, who were brutally shot and killed as the German troops evacuated Béziers and fled north.

Their crime? They had been fishing in the nearby River Thongue and as they walked home they saw the German trucks and started to jeer at the convoy. As an act of reprisal German soldiers in some of the trucks fired at the youths. They were all killed.

This act is remembered each year on this day and fresh flowers are laid at the foot of the cross by the local municipality and the families of those killed. The cross bears the names of those killed with the inscription "Cowardly killed by the Germans, August 18 1944".

Béziers Féria 2009

This weekend it's the big one in our region: it's the Béziers Féria. This five day event is huge, attracting over one million visitors, all of whom come to enjoy the excitement, the music, dancing, food and wine.

The whole of the city centre is closed off, with barriers erected on the main roads, with bars and restaurants moving onto the pavements and allowing pedestrians to completely fill the streets, streets free of any traffic.

Initially the Féria centred around bullfighting, a big tradition in the area, with a large Corrida taking place over four days in Béziers Arenas. I know many people who go each year to the Arenas for the Corrida, but this isn't for me.

Béziers Arenas, with the tops of the hospitality marquees just visible

I go for different reasons. The Arenas building is perfect for staging other events. Only two weeks ago we had a beautiful evening at the opera. We were invited by our local printers in Béziers, Combes-Hund, first as guests in their hospitality marquee, and then in their 'royal box' to watch Verdi's "La Traviata". This was a beautiful. We eventually moved to a place in the Arenas, sitting under the stars on a very warm evening and thoroughly enjoyed the performance. It was beautiful.

La Traviata. The photo quality not as good as David's photos, but this was taken on my mobile

Even if you don't visit the Arenas for the bullfighting, there are large marquees called "Espace Corrales".

These are the large marquees that surround the building, and they are open to the public each lunchtime and evening. here you can enjoy a plate of Tapas provided by a famous chef from Toulouse for around 12 euros - Jambon Rioja+Pan con tomate, Chorizo, Tortilla, Tapenade. Delicious, with local red wine and sunshine.

The main entrance to the Arenas

There are also many other events held here that are perfect for the seating arrangements and the general ambiance of this historic building. So, even though bullfighting at the Arenas is big for many people in Béziers, I prefer a rock show or an evening at the opera.

But, back to news about Béziers Féria 2009. It is officially opened by the sénateur and mayor of Béziers, Raymond Couderc on Thursday August 13. Then it's party, party, party, with loads of events and activities during the day, and the whole town coming alive during the night until 4 and 5 each morning. All the cafés and restaurants are bulging, and you can't visit a cafe or bar without the traditional bowl of mussels and plate of fries. Each cafe seems to be competing to attract your custom to indulge yourself.

Fountains at the top of Allées Paul Riquet - evenings this area will be packed with revellers

On the main Places, plus the normal car parks, long tables have been installed, so visitors can go to any of the mobile cafes, order their meal and then sit in the open wherever the wish. And of course, local wine is in abundance. They even have a special wine produced just t fro the Féria. I don't suggest that the wine is as good as the excellent wines from famous domains, but it is quite drinkable and is a wonderful souvenir to take home to drink and remind you of your holiday in the south of France.

The programme is jam packed with parades, gala events - including the crowning of Miss Féria, spectacular dancing (tango, flamenco, rumba, pasa...), concerts, music from a score of different groups and orchestras, including the famous Copa Cabana orchestra, street disco parties, bodegas, the Village du théâtre have what they call “le plus gros dance floor 80’s de la Féria 2009″, the largest 1980s dance floor in the world, and music at the Place de la Madeleine, equestrian events, rugby matches - including the one featuring the Catalan Dragons (Perpignan) against Hull FC I mentioned in a previous article...


I stop. Rather than trying to list the five day's of events you can visit the websites of Beziers Tourist Office, or Béziers Arenas, or there is a programme you can download. Click here for the Programme (PDF file). Maybe it's too late for your holiday this year, but next year pencil it in - holiday, south of France to go to the Béziers Féria!

As a foot note, the Mayor was brought into a controversy surrounding the publication of the official poster for the Féria, shown at the top of this article. This is a collage of typical Féria and Béziers images - flamenco dancer, a toreador, and a Béziers rugby player with a bulls head superimposed on his body. Unfortunately, the artist who did this used a photo of the famous French player Sébastien Chabal. Chabal objected to his photo being used in connection with bullfighting - he does not approve, and the mayor ordered the quick withdrawal and re-printing of the poster.

La 24ème Foire aux Huîtres

This Sunday we had time out to visit the nearby village of Bouzigues. The village is one of many dotted along the Étang de Thau or Bassin de Thau, a huge inland lake (the second largest in France) that opens onto the Mediterranean. It is famous for its shellfish - 18 different varieties! As an example, over 3,000 tonnes of mussels are farmed here each year.

However, the most important shellfish from the étang are oysters. Up to 800 local producers farm the 3,000 oyster tables that are strung out in the étang.

Oysters are suspended from the 3,000 tables in the étang whilst they grow

These produce just over 13,000 tonnes of oysters each year - almost 10% of France's consumption. The oysters are marketed under the name "Huîtres de Bouzigues", a mark of quality.
Every year, in August, the village organise a "Foire aux Huîtres", an Oyster Festival to celebrate the queen of shell fish. Thousands of visitors descend on the village to participate in this important event. This was the 24th annual Foire aux Huîtres, and it was a wonderful experience - obviously made all the better for people who love the taste of oysters - as I do.

There are many, many stalls along the quayside with local producers selling their oysters for people to either eat there and then, or to take home. These are really fresh! The waters of the Étang de Thau are graded 'A', which means oysters pulled from the tables can be eaten immediately.

As we knew they would be, all the restaurants along the quayside were full to overflowing. A clear blue sky and sunshine had brought many more visitors this year - last year there was over 20,000 visitors.

The famous Pink Flamingos fishing in the étang

Most of the restaurants are owned and run by the family of a producer. In fact many of the buildings started life as the boat house for the producers generations ago. Now they are delightful and unique restaurants specialising only in fish courses, including locally caught Dorada, in English I think this is Bream.

And of course, each of the restaurants offer a choice of the very best oysters. A normal dish is 12 oysters, a slice of lemon, bread (of course) with, unusually for a French restaurant, a square of butter, together with a bottle of appropriate wine - locally produced Picpoul de Pinet, the perfect wine for most fish dishes.

There are many events taking place over this festival weekend, starting with the official opening on Saturday by the mayor, and followed this year by a parade featuring Nana Brazil, a Brazilian troupe of dancers and singers. There was a further parade on Sunday, again with Nana Brazil, plus a group of dancers from Tahiti, as well as other events during the day.

Unfortunately we didn't stay for the firework display as we had an early start at work the next day - Monday is a normal working day, but we enjoyed our day out in the Mediterranean sunshine. And don't forget this festival when youn arrange your holiday next year - normally it's the first weekend in August.

It's summer, it's Montblanc Féria...

The Féria - tables and chairs set out in front of the Mairie

A Catalan flavour for our Féria
You know it's summer for sure, not just with the clear blue skies and hot sunshine, but because of all the extra activities that are taking place. Throughout the summer months the south of France bursts into life, with fêtes, festivals, concerts, large markets selling local artisan products, and much, much more.

And I do love the fêtes that take place in this region. Each village, large and small, have their own individual fête, with the customs relevant to their area. Normally they last 3 to 4 days, with a different special event each day.

This year, as normal, we went to our village fête in Montblanc, not dissimilar to all the fêtes organised by all the other villages, but of course, this is our village, so it has to be better.

And, as I've explained in previous articles, our village has a Catalan origin, so the summer fête take on a French/Spanish theme - it's called a 'Féria' for example, not fête. It starts Thursday, July 30, with a huge paella soirée at the local cafe, "La France", complete with Spanish guitar music and Flamenco dancers.

Friday night is Party Night

Friday is when the first big party takes place. As usual, this is held on the Place in front of the Mairie. During the day there are plenty of activities, but principally another Petanque contest, with a paella meal for both participants and spectators - and local wine.

There is exciting Spanish 'Corrida' type music, played by a local band (from Beziers), complete with dancers, dressed in Corrida red and white. The dancers do a traditional dance in front of the marching band, waving their red bandanas over their heads.As they tour the village the sounds of the band waft over the rooftops all afternoon.

They also play and dance at the head of a procession of Camargue horses and bulls - just like a Corrida, just before the Abrivado

The dancers and band, followed by the horses from the Camargue

The first Abrivado
This is followed with an added spectacle of an Abrivado. For many years there has been a particular Spanish Bravados where bulls are let loose in the street. They run from one end to the other chasing the brave young ones who dare to run in front of them, and being chased by those not so brave who run behind. A sort of mini Pamplona.

However, this year, because of the large number of accidents and injuries, the village had instead a traditional Camargue Abrivado. The horseman from the Camargue arrive with their famous white horses, and gallop with the bulls around the streets. They use their remarkable skills of horsemanship to 'chaperone' the bulls as they speed through the village. Yes, occasionally a bull does break loose, and that's the time my cameraman (David) runs behind the nearest barrier - along with all the other spectators lining the streets!

The Abrivado coming up the street from the Mairie and go past our house

In the evening tables and chairs are quickly put in place for people to enjoy their meals and the entertainment. There is a large stage for all the groups that will perform, plus a huge 'canteen' where a large staff of volunteers prepare Spanish Tapas - a variety of meats, including plenty of Merguez, and shellfish such as mussels, for all those who come.

The canteen, with Spanish drapes, opens to it's first customers of the night

Plus, there is a very large bar to sell soft drinks, beers and local wine. It's very well organised. There is entertainment later in the evening from a pretty famous group, Bernard Becker, providing a mixture of Spanish, French and English music. Dancing goes on until well after midnight.

It all starts again on Saturday, with an early morning Abrivado, to help wake you up. And again, in the afternoon and evening, there is more Abrivado, with white horses and bulls galloping around the village, urged on by cheering crowds.

Another meal is prepared on the place - not as large this time, as it is only lunch, but with good local wine as an accompaniment. Later in the afternoon, there is the Toro Piscine, to test the metal of the young (and not so young. This is a mini bull ring, where young bulls and young people can chase each other around, showing just how brave they are. This is not a bull fight. there are no varas, banderillas or swords. It's just good fun. The girls of the village cheer on their boys, and the bulls give them a good run-around, chasing them around the small ring.

Then, in the evening, it's party time, with something like 900 people on the village Place for another large party. This starts with Flamenco dancing from a group called Sévillanes. Then again, there are Spanish Tapas from the canteen (photo right shows the Merguez going on one of the barbecues) , and local wine from the bar.

Later in the evening, there is a soirée mousse. This is where a dance floor, complete with a myriad of disco lighting is erected, and a house DJ plays a wide variety of music. At appropriate intervals, a large wind sock emits mousse onto the dance floor - a very bubbly mixture to excite the dancers. Dancing goes on until well after midnight.

Family affair and beautiful holiday memories
This is a real family affair, with large families all sat together around long tables, together with friends and neighbours from the village. Everyone is here to enjoy a meal, the wine, a chat with friends and neighbours, and good music. A perfect end to a beautiful weekend in the south of France.

When you take your holiday during the summer, do NOT miss out on the enjoyment to be had ain your village. perhaps it will not be quite the same as our village, but it will be good fun and will certainly add to your holiday memories.