Montpellier and "Les Hivernales"

The Christmas tree on Place de la Comedie - not real snow of course!

On Saturday, for the first time this year, we both got really caught up with the Christmas spirit. We went to Montpellier to do some shopping. Not Christmas shopping, but shopping normally. I needed new shoes and Montpellier has plenty of shoe shops. They offer a good choice too, from the normal average everyday shoes, to the exorbitantly expensive high fashion shoes. I wish! I would be very happy to just buy nice shoes.

This time we did not park in the city centre. We were feeling environmentally friendly so we parked as we left the A9 autoroute and took a Park and Ride tram from St. Jean de Vedas. The city has done really well to invest in the super tram system. They have two main lines covering a very wide area of the city and outlying suburbs and are now in the process of constructing a third line that will go directly from city center to the coastal beaches.

I must write more about the tram system on another posting as the system is so important for tourists taking their holidays in the area. Everyone should know how easy it is to use and the areas it covers.

But for now back to the Staurday shopping trip. We alighted from the tram right in the centre, on Place de la Comedie. And surprise, surprise, right into the center of the annual "Les Hivernales".

Temperartures of around 18 degrees C - that's considered cold for southerners, but warm enough to sit outside and have a 'vin chaud'

In the north-east of France at this time of year the city of Strasbourg has the oldest and largest Christmas market in France. With over 300 chalets market, the city attracts more than 1.6 million visitors, who throng the ancient streets during the Christmas season. Strasbourg Christmas market has been there since at least 1570 - at that time called Klausenmaërik (Market St. Nicolas), an Anglo-Saxon name varying marking the close alliance with Germany.

The city of Montpellier's history goes back even further, but "Les Hivernales" (Christmas Market) is a more recent tradition compared with Strasburg. Nevertheless, with over 170 traders presenting and selling their products, it is quite an event.

On Place de la Comedie, the traders are there from December 4 thro' January 3. It's billed as four weeks of happiness, rendezvous, dining and a general 'feel-good' atmosphere. Well, for the two of us, it was all that, and with all the choice from different vendors we were spoiled for choice for Christmas gifts for friends and family - or for just the two of us.

Nearly every cabin is selling artisan goods - here chocolate goodies from a local Chocolatier

The city makes it clear that this is not "your ordinary Christmas Markett" but a Christmas market that reflect the customs and traditions of the south of France. There are no Swiss Chalet types for example, instead, in the best Mediterranean traditions, there are' cabins'. Traditionally these are built using timber and reeds, to reflect the earlier living accommodation of the nearby Camargue.

This cabin does a good trade selling Aligot - one of David's favourites ever since we had a short break in the Aubrac, home of Agilot. A dish made from fresh, raw milk cheese, pressed curd, mashed potatoes, fresh cream, butter and garlic. The cabin was also typically selling Andouillette (Chitterlings) – NOT one of David’s favourites!

Montpellier Christmas market is not just an event to buy gifts, it's also a place to meet local producers who love their products - meats, cheeses, aligot (see 'cabin' selling Agilot above), perfumes, chocolates and more. Local products 'made with love' they say. It's a beautiful event filled with atmosphere and the southern way of life.

We spent more time looking around the different 'cabins' than we anticipated when we arrived, but spent a wonderful Saturday afternoon. Oh yes, and I got a beautiful pair of shoes. Good day!

Closing note. Who can resist Marrons Chaud - roasted chestnuts? Christmas and Bing Crosby or what? So yes, we bought some, and, fingers burning as we peeled them, we ate them while we waited for the tram to take us home.

23rd Téléthon weekend

An important day today - the start of the 23rd Téléthon, a popular television event that involves everyone throughout the whole of France. The event is held to raise money to fund research on rare diseases. Each year over 5 million people take to the streets for the event, a festival sometimes described as "July 14 in winter", and it is a sort of social bond for many French people.

Last year 104 million euros was raised during the event weekend, nearly half coming from the street events; sales of crêpes, bric-a-brac, sales of items knitted by volunteers, bike races, balloon releases and so on. The rest comes from the 'phone-in donations during a 36 hour television marathon, with all French state television channels involved.

Each of our village associations organised something different, but all with the same aim of raising money.

Problems

There is a small blot on the scene this year however which threatens to dampen the spirit of those who participate and those who give their money. The high fashion designer, millionaire Pierre Berge, who is the President of Sidaction (an organisation trying to raise money for research into AIDS and helping to develop new drugs), sparked an uproar which threatens to cause problems.

He accused the French association against Myopathies (AFM), whose funds depend mainly on Téléthon money, as being "a parasite on the generosity the French people". Rather than the whole money raised going to a charity which funds research into disease affecting a small minority, he proposes to share the money raised with other equally serving causes. In addition, he pointed out the vast sums of money that the association put in banks just to earn interest income, rather than spending on research. I believe he is right in this aim.

Montblanc Téléthon

However, that did not stop the Téléthon and all the fund-raising events today. Our village of Montblanc is no exception, and despite a cooler than normal November day, the village Place was full, with people participating in this annual event.

This event started at 8.30 with the sale of "d'Oreillettes", a large and sweet crispy thin wafer, already prepared by a local artisan and boxed ready to take home (photo left). Every city, town and village will be taking part, holding special attractions and events, with the sole aim of raising money for the charity involved.

Then at 9.00 the first of "Randodonnee Cycliste", a leisurely bike ride of around 60 kms (leisurely for the French that is - a marathon for my husband!), taking in several neighbouring villages. Just after this event started, the local motorcycle club (around 40 members) set off on their adventure, raising money as they go.

Around the Place there were many market stalls, quickly erected by volunteers to host various sales pitches. This included the sale of fresh oysters, direct from Bouzigues, a coastal with the largest oyster beds on the Mediterranean and just down the road from us, so to speak. There are also stalls selling various hand-made items. Face-painting for children, release of balloons with messages quickly written on their labels, everything is in full swing.

Fishing in the village fountain

Members of Pescofis - the local fishing club, even commandeered the village fountain, filling the water with trout! Children paid to hire a small fishing line to hook the fish, the successful ones proudly giving them to mum to take home for the evening meal. The photo below shows children deciding which of the trout they will catch when the event starts.

The large barbeque was doing extremely well, selling burgers, sausis and fries - delicious. Then one stall sells other food, something typically French - crêpes!

My best friend Martine (in the centre of the photo) was making and selling these.

She confided in me that as she is originally from Brittany in the north, it's only correct that she makes them. After all she says, it is a Bretagne delicacy, and she makes them properly - not like they do in the south.

The event will continue tonight, with a dance in the village hall, and with a large Lotto organised for tomorrow afternoon.

We're not sure how much money has been raised yet, but everyone has worked extremely hard to make this event a success.